Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave
of Peter Heller
Description
With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The River and The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discoveryâof surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the oceanâs beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life.Author of the New York Times bestselling novel The Dog Stars Winner of the National Outdoor Book Award for Literature Having resolved to master a big-hollow waveâthat is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredderâin a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits. As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving, Kook is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea.
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Book Details
- Format E-book
- Pages 336 pages
- Publisher Free Press
- Publication Date July 13th 2010
- First Publication 06/25/10
- Language English
- ISBN 9781439171813
- Edition Not informed
- Category Non-Fiction
- Scenario []
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